From making a starter to kneading and mixing

Beginners' blog - a starter, from scratch

2008, January 14 - 22:27 — SourDom

• What you will need
• Background
• Recipe
• Troubleshooting
• Looking after your starter
• Glossary
• References

What you will need:

1. White flour (preferably organic)
2. Rye flour (preferably organic)
3. Water (preferably filtered)
4. A large clean jar or container (ideally transparent so that you can see what is happening)
5. A spoon (to stir with)
6. a little patience…

Background

Sourdough is the oldest form of leavened (or ‘risen’) bread. Baking presumably existed for a long time before that, mixing a paste of dried ground grains with water, and then baking it. However at some point someone must have discovered that if the paste or dough was left overnight, or for a couple of days, it started to change in appearance and odour, and that the bread when baked was lighter in texture, easier to digest, and stronger in flavour.

The oldest form of leavening was almost certainly due to this sort of accidental development of a starter, with small amounts of dough/paste being kept aside from one batch to leaven the next. At some point residues from fermented grapes or hops were used to provide an alternative source of yeast. Of course nowadays most baking is done with commercially isolated yeast.

Sourdough baking uses a technique akin to that earliest form of baking leavened bread. In this tutorial we are going to try to do deliberately what the ancients did inadvertently - to create an environment in which flour and water will naturally ferment. Once that fermentation has established we can use that culture of microorganisms to make our bread indefinitely (at least as long as we look after it properly).

Established starters contain a mixture of yeast and bacteria. Don’t worry, these bacteria are quite friendly (they are the same ones that are present in yoghurt, or that people consume deliberately in preparations like ‘Yakult’). The yeast and bacteria live together in a special sort of cooperative existence, with the yeast eating and breaking down sugars from the flour, and the bacteria feeding off some of the breakdown products from the yeast. The yeast provides the leavening action for the bread, but the bacteria are responsible for much of the flavour.

There are lots of different ways of generating a successful starter. If you are interested I have previously compared a couple of different methods.

One question is where the yeast come from that populate the starter. One theory says that they come from the environment (the air). Adherents of that theory (eg the ’starter doctor’ Brian Dixon) suggest leaving the jar/bowl open to the air - even having a fan over the bowl so that airborne yeasts will land in it. An alternative theory argues that yeast spores can be found in the flour (particularly wholewheat flour?), or alternatively on the surface of grapes/sultanas (that’s why some starter ‘recipes’ suggest using organic grapes or sultanas to get things going). If that is the case, then you can cover your starter with plastic wrap. I confess that I have always covered the top of my starter jar, without discernible problems.

To start with (lots of unintended puns here), here are some general principles gleaned from different sources.

1. Make sure that your containers are clean before you start. (I poured some boiling water in my jars and left them for 10 minutes beforehand, then tipped the water out). The idea is to try to avoid contaminating your starter with unpleasant organisms (the starter is especially vulnerable early).

2. Use filtered or spring water where possible

3. Use organic ingredients where possible (to maximise the concentration of microorganisms in your ingredients, and to prevent any inhibitory effect from preservatives/fungicides etc)

4. The aim of the refreshing steps is to add extra food for the organisms that you are culturing. Each time you refresh you need to add extra flour and water. You will need to throw some starter out to make room for this - otherwise you will rapidly accumulate litres of the stuff…

5. If you read around a bit the instructions all seem to differ, but are all quite dogmatic - you must use this, you mustn’t use that, you should cover, you musn’t cover etc. I think that what this probably means is that actually creating a starter is not that hard - there are lots of different ways, all of which can work.

6. Use a glass jar/bowl - you can see what the starter is doing…

The technique that I am going to use in this blog is one of the simplest of all. I am going to use flour (a mixture of rye and white) and water only, and we will see how we go.

Starter Recipe

The flour that I have used here is a combination of

Kialla white unbleached organic flour and

Wholegrain Milling organic rye

I made this starter in the middle of a Melbourne winter, so it was reasonably slow to get going. You may find that your starter becomes active quicker than these photos would suggest. If so that is great. You would still do well to follow the schedule for refreshing the starter daily for 2 weeks (see below).

Day 1:

Clean your jar and stirring spoon with boiling water

Add to the jar:

• 50g water
• 35g white flour
• 15g rye flour

Stir, and set aside for 24 hours.

Depending on the time of year and the ambient temperature, you may find it harder or easier to get a starter going. The best temperature for yeast activity (at least the sort that are found in sourdough) is about 30 degrees C (that’s 80F for any imperialists out there). If the weather is cool your starter may be slow to establish. If it is very warm there is a bigger chance of the starter getting contaminated with unpleasant bacteria. I have had most experience with getting starters going at about 20C.



Day 2

There won’t be much to see yet, but that’s OK.

Add to the jar

• 50g water
• 35g white flour
• 15g rye flour

Stir with a clean spoon, cover and set aside for 24 hours

Day 3

Still not much to see

Add

• 50g water
• 35g white flour
• 15g rye flour

Stir with a clean spoon and leave for 24 hours

Day 4

a few definite bubbles visible below the surface

Discard most of the starter (put it in the compost or the bin), leave about a tablespoon in the jar

Add 100g water, 70g white flour, 30g rye

stir and leave for 24 hours

Day 5

More bubbles visible, but the starter hasn’t increased in volume perceptibly.

Discard most. Add 100g water, 70g white flour, 30g rye.

Day 6

The starter has increased in volume (by a 1/3 perhaps), and has now lots of bubbles below the surface. It has a complex slightly fruity odour.

Discard most of the starter (leave a tablespoon at most in the bottom of the jar). Add 100g water, 70g white flour, 30g rye (getting the idea yet?).

Day 7 (onwards)

Using the above technique you will need to continue to refresh your starter daily for at least another week. Each time you will need to discard the majority of the starter, and add in new water and flour.

Your starter is ‘active’ when after 24 hours it has increased (doubled) in volume, has a thick layer of froth on the top, and a rich network of bubbles below the surface. It is now ready to use for baking.

(this photo was taken on day 8 of the above starter. You can’t see from the photo, but overnight the starter had reached the top of the jar, and a little had escaped. It had subsided since then (ie it is past its peak) - but I wouldn’t have any qualms about using it.)

Troubleshooting

1. Timing of refreshment

After your starter is refreshed - if you watch closely over the next 24 hours or so you will see bubbles start to appear, and the starter expand in volume. It will reach its maximum volume (’peak’) at a variable time, depending on the activity of your starter, and the temperature of the room.In a warm environment this might be at 12 hours or earlier, while in a cold room it might take more than 24 hours.

Generally speaking we would aim to use the starter at or close to this ‘peak’ time, though it will probably still work fine if it is used a few hours either side of this.

2. Low starter activity

If there is no sign of activity despite following the above instructions there are a couple of options. It may be worth while persevering for another week, refreshing daily. Alternatively it may be worthwhile starting again. You could try a different flour for your refreshment. You could also try adding about 10g of organic sultanas with the flour and water on the first day. Yeasts on the surface of the fruit will help to seed your starter and get things going.

3. Contaminated starter

If your starter smells unpleasant - like rotten eggs, or vomit, or something equally disgusting it may have become contaminated with less friendly bacteria. Don’t give up - it is often possible to resuscitate your starter. Wash a clean jar, and add a teaspoon or so of starter from your smelly batch. Add 100g water and 100g flour. Stir and leave for 24 hours.

Brian Dixon suggests leaving your starter out for 12 hours, and then putting it in the fridge. This might be worthwhile if your starter becomes contaminated in warm weather.

Avoiding disasters

Once you have carefully nurtured and raised your starter, you don’t want to lose it. Make sure that you leave a little starter behind when you are making your dough - so that you have enough to make more. This is important - don’t forget!

If there is someone in your house who intermittently has a cleaning frenzy and empties the fridge of UFOs (unidentifiied fridge objects), make sure they know what your starter looks like. Strange smelling white slurries in unlabelled jars would be fair game otherwise!

Other troubleshooting - have a look at the starter doctor…

Looking after your starter:

Your starter is bit like a pet, it will respond best to a bit of regular attention and food. On the other hand starters are quite resilient, and will often survive a fair bit of neglect (it is a good thing that there is no such thing as a Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Starters…)

Starters will have most activity if they are fed every day. However unless you are baking every day this necessitates discarding a lot of starter, and many people find the waste of flour and starter distressing. An alternative is to put your starter in the fridge when you are not using it. It will happily sit in the fridge without feeding for days or even weeks, ready to come back to life when you need it. However it is probably worthwhile trying to refresh your starter at least once a week to keep it lively. Also if your starter hasn’t been refreshed for more than a few days it will probably benefit from 2 refreshes before baking with it. Make sure your starter is covered in the fridge or it will dry out.

Refreshing starter (recently used)

If your starter is active and has been used recently it will probably only need one refreshment before using it.

Pour all of the starter in your jar out (into the compost or bin). (Don’t worry - there will still be some left in the bottom of the jar - this will be enough to seed the next batch of starter). Add half the weight of starter that you need in flour (plus a little bit), and the same of water. For example for 200g of starter add 110g flour and 110g water to the little bit of starter left in the bottom of the jar. Stir well and leave covered in a warm place for 24 hours.

Pour your starter into the mixing bowl. Add 50g of flour and 50g of water to what is left in the jar (this will replenish your stock of starter), and leave for 24 hours before putting back in the fridge.

Refreshing starter (not used for a while)

This is Mick’s recipe for bringing a starter back to life. It uses 2 refreshes 12 hours apart (if the temperature is cold you may need to make this 24 hours apart). This has the advantage of minimising waste.

Divide the amount of starter that you need by fifteen.

To this amount of starter add twice the amount of flour and water (1:2:2). Leave for 12 hours. Add equal amounts of flour and water and leave for 12 hours (1:1:1).

It is less confusing to talk in real numbers. For example for 300g starter. 1/15 x 300 = 20g

Add 20g starter to 40g flour and 40g water (total 100g). Leave for 12 hours

Add 100g flour and 100g water (total 300g). Leave for 12 hours.

Don’t forget to leave a little bit of starter behind to replenish your stock.

Other types of starters

Some recipes call for rye or wholemeal starters. You don’t need to keep multiple different starters going (though some enthusiastic people do). You can convert your stock starter into a rye or wholemeal starter by simply refreshing it with that flour for a couple of days.

Note, that sometimes starters will go on strike when their usual food is changed. For example you might see a sudden drop in activity with the change to a different flour. If that happens you can either persist (the activity will often come back), or revert to your usual flour, and then add in the new flour more gradually. For example you could start with 30% rye, and then progressively increase the proportion of rye with each refreshment.

Glossary

Chef - see starter

Leaven - see starter

Levain - see starter

Mother - this is the starter that you keep aside to replenish your stock, and use to create enough starter for baking

Refresh - to add flour and water to a small amount of starter

Starter - this is a mixture of flour and water containing bacteria and yeast, that is used to leaven sourdough bread. (aka leaven, levain, chef)

Setting off…

2006, June 10 - 15:00 — SourDom

“The road goes ever on and on
Down from the door where it began
Now far ahead the road has gone
And I must follow if I can
Pursuing it with weary feet
Until it joins some larger way
Where many paths and errands meet
And whither then I cannot say”

JRR Tolkien ‘The Lord of the Rings’

This is a first feeble attempt at a blog, so forgive any idiosyncrasies, or inconsistencies in what follows.

Beginners’ blog - kneading and mixing

2006, June 1 - 15:00 — SourDom

What you will need

1. Mixing bowl
2. spoon to stir
3. water, flour, dried yeast
4. olive oil
5. tea towel or similar
6. oven tray

Background

In this tutorial we are going to cover the first technique that any baker uses and becomes accustomed to - the art of kneading. Except, as we will see, there is far less need to knead than you might think.

Why do we knead? Bread dough when fully developed is malleable, stretchy and smooth. But when we first add water to flour it is just a gluey heavy mass. What happens in between? Much of the elastic property of dough is due to a protein in wheat called gluten. Think of gluten in a just-mixed dough like a whole bunch of rubber bands knotted together in a ball. It is pretty heavy and not very stretchable. As the dough is folded and compressed over and over again the rubber bands untangle and end up lined up together. Now if you grab hold of one end of the elastic bands - you can stretch the whole thing a lot further. That is akin to what is happenig at a microscopic level as a dough is developed.

Two other things happen during the kneading process - tiny air pockets are created in the dough, and water is absorbed by the flour. You can think of the water as lubricating the elastic bands (gluten), and allowing them to untangle more easily.
Traditionally dough is kneaded by hand for maybe 10-12 minutes or more, or is mixed more intensively by a machine. Machines are able to knead doughs more vigorously, and the resulting doughs are often more finely textured, because of the generation of more and smaller air pockets. However this is not necessarily the aim of the game in artisan baking, and we often aim to achieve larger, and more irregular pockets of air in a dough.

However some bakers have discovered that long periods of hand or machine kneading are not necessary, and that short kneads interspersed with periods of rest for the dough actually allows the gluten to ‘untangle’ more or less by itself. The technique that I describe here is heavily inspired by Dan Lepard, who has popularised this approach to dough mixing. The advantage of short kneads/resting the dough are

1. it is easier
2. it can be fitted around other tasks (in a busy kitchen or schedule)
3. it permits hand kneading of very moist doughs, which otherwise are very hard to handle
4. it may actually produce better results than continuous hand kneading (see experiment)

We are going to make a simple sponge using yeast, which is left to multiply for 2 hours. The sponge you can think of as an ‘instant starter’. The resulting bread won’t be anywhere near as nice as sourdough, but the basic principles are the same.

Recipe

For this tutorial use the Pane Francese (2) recipe (sponge). You can of course use the sourdough version if your starter is already active, but the timings will need to be altered accordingly. We are going to focus on the kneading/mixing stage for this loaf, and so will keep the rest fairly simple. In subsequent tutorials we will become more sophisticated in our proving, shaping and baking.

Sponge

8am

Mix 1 teaspoon yeast with 50mls hand-hot water. Stir and leave for 10 minutes. (This step is necessary for dried yeast because the protective coating on the yeast is broken down in warm water).

8:10

Add the rest of the water (50g) and 100g flour. Stir the mixture well. Cover and set aside for 2 hours.

10:10

The sponge that you have now is very similar to an active starter. Pour it into a large mixing bowl. Add the water (320g). Mix the starter into the water with your fingers (breaking up the lumps).

Add the flour (450g white, 50g wholemeal) and the salt (10g). Stir it all together roughly with your hands until it resembles a ragged mess. This wiill take perhaps 10 seconds. Don’t worry about kneading it. Cover the bowl, and set aside for 10 minutes.

10:20

Rub a teaspoon of olive oil onto your benchtop. Rub the excess oil onto your hands. (Or better still if you have a tray with a non-porous, non-absorbable surface - eg laminex - use that to knead on - it means less mess, and easier to work around).

Tip the dough out of the bowl onto this surface.
Knead for just 10 seconds.

Kneading is simply repeating folding and compressing of a dough. One simple way of doing this is to push with the heel of your hand in the middle of the dough, stretching the far side of the dough away from you. Grab hold of the far (stretched) side of the dough, and fold it back towards you. Turn the whole dough by 90 degrees. Repeat this process about 10 times

(I know that you feel like you need to knead the dough for longer, but you really don’t need to do more than this)

Push away

Fold over

Turn 90 degrees

Repeat perhaps 10 times quickly

That’s enough. The dough at this stage is barely mixed, and will break if you stretch it…

Leave the dough alone for a second (put a towel on top of it. Give your bowl a quick clean. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but you want to get rid of the lumps of dough in the bottom. Dry the bowl. Slurp a bit of olive oil in the bottom, and put your dough in the bottom of the bowl. Cover it
Let the dough rest for 5-8 mins (depends how long you took to wash the bowl…)

10:30

Put a little extra olive oil on your kneading surface. Grab the dough out of your bowl, plonk it on the bench (or board), and knead for just 10 seconds.

The dough will already be feeling softer, and will be quite slippery with the olive oil. It will be a bit stretchier

Put the dough back in the bowl. Cover it and let it rest for 10 minutes

10:40

Knead the dough for just 10 seconds on your oiled surface (add extra oil if you need to). It will be softer and more elastic now.

Put the dough back in the bowl, cover and leave for 30 minutes.

11:10

One last quick knead.

The dough is now soft and very stretchy, despite the fact that you have kneaded it for no more than 40 seconds in total.

We have finished mixing and kneading this dough, so the object of this tutorial is finished. However it would be criminal to leave the dough at this stage.

Put the dough back in the bowl. Cover and leave for about 45 mins (the dough will have risen, perhaps doubled in size).

11:55

Put the dough onto a floured work surface. Dimple it a little with your fingertips until it is a flattish circle. Don’t knock out all of the air from the dough. Gently, but tightly roll up the dough from the far end towards you into a cylinder. Turn the dough so that the ’seam’ is facing upwards. Place the whole ‘log’, seam facing up onto a generously floured tea towel. Dimple the top vigorously with your fingertips, so that it is now more of a squashed cylinder (again don’t squash all the air out). Cover the dough and leave for about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile turn the oven on to about 210C.

12:40

Turn your dough onto an oven tray (the seam will now be facing down onto the tray). Put the tray in the oven.

Bake for 35-45 mins (depends on your oven), until the loaf sounds hollow when you tap it on the top, and on the base.

1:20

A sort of rustic ciabatta-like loaf

(NB Of course this photo was taken a little while later, so that the loaf had time to cool down before cutting it)

The blog follows on from my ramblings on the sourdough australia forum

Bilbo’s song is an allusion to the sort of rambling journey that this blog might turn out to be (though it is possible that we will all end up in the stomach of a troll).
My idea is that it will be a diary of my breadmaking, providing me with a place to document ideas and experiments with (mostly) sourdough.
Because I am a scientist (among many other things), the format of these experiments will be semi-scientific, though the aim is still to have fun.

I have in mind a whole range of questions that might give rise to experiments:
1. Starter questions (best hydration, refreshing ingredients, best timing, volume in bread?)
2. Flour questions (different types/proportions of flour)
3. Other ingredients (salt, vitamin C etc)
4. Baking variables (baking tray vs stone, baking temperatures)

and whither then I cannot say…