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Eric Kayser’s Ciabatta au Levain Liquide

Posted in Bread, French, Italian |

No, I didn’t confuse my (non-existent) French and Italian. This formula for Italian ciabatta uses French terminology because it’s from Eric Kayser, well-renowned in Paris for his breads and pastries. In a city saturated with driven artisans dedicated to their craft, Maison Kayser still manages to consistently rank high among the best Parisian bakeries.

Even more impressive, for bread nerds like me at least, are his somewhat accessible bread formulas that share a common thread in liquid levain, wild yeast starter fed with equal weights water and flour. Used with commercial yeast to bring dough to life, the liquid starter also adds a very subtle acidity, a quality lacking in bread raised exclusively with commercial yeast.

After trying several ciabatta formulas, I can’t quite pinpoint why this method produces results better than the rest. All of the ciabatta formulas I tried had an airy interior but the most noticeable difference is the crust. It not so much crunches but shatters audibly as bitten, as opposed to the other formulas that yielded a slightly thicker and chewier crust.

formula adapted from Eric Kayser
Yeastspotting at Wild Yeast Blog

Eric Kayser’s Ciabatta au Levain Liquide

makes 4 small ciabatta loaves

Notes:

• I used Bernard Clayton’s suggestion for approximating French T65 flour by using 3 parts all-purpose flour and 1 part bread flour. I used King Arthur Flour.
• Gentle handling is essential to get the characteristic irregular holes and open crumb of ciabatta.

For the Final Dough:

Ingredients                  Volume          Ounces          Grams
liquid levain (100% hydration)                    5.3          150
all-purpose flour                                13.25         375
bread flour                                       4.4          125
water, at room temperature      350 ml
instant yeast                   1/4 tsp
sea salt                          2 tsp            .5           14

Final Dough Instructions:

Mix             Mix all of the ingredients until evenly incorporated

Knead           10 to 12 minutes

Ferment #1      60 minutes at room temperature

Stretch and Fold

Ferment #2      60 minutes at room temperature

Divide          4 pieces

Rest            45 minutes at room temperature

Shape           Stretch gently into a rectangular shape

shaped ciabatta

Preheat Oven    500ºF/260ºC

Final Proof     45 minutes at room temperature

Steam           1 cup of boiling water poured in a heavy steam
                pan (preferably cast iron)

Bake            Bake for 10 to 12 minutes at 500ºF/260ºC

Cool            At least 15 minutes

My attempt at Eric Kayser’s Baguettes Monge

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